The history behind having ham for Thanksgiving in Virginia
No turkey? No problem! In Virginia, turkey isn’t the only meat on the holiday menu. Discover why so many Virginians serve ham on Thanksgiving—and beyond.
Turkey is typically the star of the show at Thanksgiving dinner—unless you live in Virginia. In Old Dominion, ham steals some of the spotlight on dinner tables, even during holidays like Thanksgiving when turkey is usually the protein of choice.
Virginia is known for producing ham that’s particularly mouthwatering—much more so than ham that comes from other states throughout the U.S. But what makes Virginia ham so delicious? How does it get its distinctive taste? And how did it become an iconic part of Virginia’s culinary landscape? Keep reading to find out and discover the best places to purchase your own Virginia ham.
The history of Virginia ham
Virginia ham’s origins date back all the way to colonial times, and the meat has the distinction of being one of the first agricultural products to be exported from North America. Early settlers in Jamestown brought pigs with them and learned how to cure ham from the area’s indigenous people, who preserved the meat with salt and smoke and allowed temperature changes outdoors to slowly age it.
Fun fact: Virginia is home to the world’s oldest ham. The ham, which is more than 120 years old, is on display at the Isle of Wight County Museum and can also be viewed 24/7 online thanks to the museum’s aptly named “ham cam.”
Smithfield, where the museum that houses the record-breaking ham is located, is often referred to as the “Ham Capital of the World” or simply “Hamtown.” Commercial ham production in Smithfield began around 1779. In 1936, Smithfield Packing Company was created and quickly gained global recognition for its ham. (Queen Victoria was a regular customer, reportedly ordering half a dozen hams per week.)
Now called Smithfield Foods, Inc., the company is the world’s biggest pork producer. However, in 2024, it discontinued its Genuine Smithfield Ham product due to a lack of sales, though it still sells many other ham products. (The last Genuine Smithfield Ham ever produced is on display with the world’s oldest ham at the Isle of Wight County Museum.) Despite the discontinuation of Smithfield’s Genuine Smithfield Ham, Virginia ham continues to be a staple on dining tables in Virginia—and throughout the country.
What makes Virginia ham unique?
Virginia ham is a variation of traditional country ham known for its unique sweetness. (Country ham is dry cured and common in Southern states, while city ham is wet cured and what you’ll likely come across when shopping for ham at a supermarket.) The razorback hogs from which Virginia ham is cut have historically been fed a diet that includes peaches and peanuts, which contributes to the ham’s sweet flavor.
But sweetness isn’t the only thing that makes Virginia hams stand out from other hams. Virginia hams are also cured and aged for longer than other types of ham, which enhances their flavor. According to the Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia hams should be aged for 45 to 180 days, while Smithfield Ham must be aged at least six months.
Virginia ham for special occasions
While Virginia ham is a Southern tradition that many enjoy year-round, it’s particularly popular during holidays such as Easter, Christmas, and Thanksgiving. A whole ham with gorgeous garnishes and a delectable glaze makes for a lovely centerpiece on a holiday table.
There are a few explanations about why people eat ham during the holidays. One reason is that in times before the refrigerator was invented, ham became a practical and popular gift among those who had to travel to see friends and family for holidays in the colder winter months. Another reason is that pigs were often associated with abundance, wealth, and good fortune, so it made sense to gift ham to others during the holidays or on special occasions.
Where to buy Virginia ham
There are many places to purchase Virginia ham, from big-name supermarkets to online retailers. But for the best quality and taste, we recommend getting yours from one of the local spots highlighted below when possible.
Fulks Run Grocery
Address: 11441 Brocks Gap Rd., Fulks Run
Fulks Run Grocery, a family-run business founded in 1949, produces Virginia hams under the brand name Turner Hams using a traditional family recipe. The store also sells a fried ham sandwich, which was named Virginia’s best country ham sandwich in 2017, as well as other food items ranging from jams and jellies to salsas and soups.
Darden’s Country Store
Address: 16249 Bowling Green Rd., Smithfield
Darden’s Country Store has been smoking ham for almost as long as Fulks Run Grocery (since the early 1950s). The family-run business produces ham that’s so tasty, it’s been featured on the Food Network and in publications such as Southern Living and The New York Times. Darden’s also sells a variety of homemade treats, including ham biscuits, several flavors of pie, ham salad, and ham and Swiss quiche.
Old Virginia Ham Shop
Address: 760 W. 22 St., Norfolk
Old Virginia Ham Shop, founded in 1956, keeps its offerings simple: country ham, honey ham, sweet potato biscuits, and Virginia peanuts. While the quaint store is worth a visit, if you can’t make the drive to Norfolk, you can order your ham and other products online.
Kite’s Hams
Address: 3957 Wolftown-Hood Rd., Madison
Kite’s Hams is another excellent option for those seeking an authentic Virginia ham. Located in a converted chicken house, the store has been in business for about 65 years, and the hams are cured according to a secret family recipe. In addition to its Famous Grandpap’s Virginia Ham, Kite’s Hams also sells bacon (sliced or slab), cooked trimmings and bones that can be used as seasonings, and gift boxes with a variety of edible products.
Appomattox River Peanut & Wine Company
Appomattox River Peanut & Wine Company sells gourmet peanuts and other goods—including Virginia ham from Felts, a company well-known amongst Virginians for its cured country ham. Other products include a variety of peanut butters, cookies, candied nuts, hot sauces, and raw honey. Online ordering is available.
Address: 424 S. 15th Ave., Hopewell
How to enjoy Virginia ham
There are a variety of ways to enjoy Virginia ham, though it’s often served thinly sliced, sometimes alongside bread or crackers. This recipe for an oven-baked Virginia ham features a traditional brown sugar glaze and is an excellent option for a holiday meal.
Additionally, ham biscuits—usually served on dinner rolls, not biscuits as the name would have you think—are common in Virginia for special occasions, such as holiday parties and weddings. Leftover ham (if you have any) works well in a classic ham salad.
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