Trade the Manhattan grind for a night under the stars, plenty of rest, and thought-provoking public art.
They say that after living in New York City for a decade, you officially become a New Yorker. By that calculation, I’m a resident nearly three times over. In all those years, I’ve never treated myself to a staycation—until now. But instead of staying in a five-star hotel, I’m hopping a ferry to Governors Island. Yes… I’m going camping.
You don’t need a passport to island-hop in New York City. A mere half-mile from lower Manhattan’s Battery Maritime Building, Governors Island has shape-shifted over the centuries from Indigenous land the Lenape called Paggank (“Nut Island”) to a cultural and educational destination that’s become one of the city’s best-kept secrets.
History buffs will find plenty to unpack that reflects both the ingenuity and capitalism of our forefathers (Dutch colonists arrived in the early 17th century, followed by the British and, eventually, American revolutionaries). Since I’ll be sleeping in a tent—without a TV, I presume—I’ll have plenty of time to contemplate the good, the bad, and the ugly of America at 250, and how my tiny footprint fits into the bigger picture.
From sea to shining sea, in under 10 minutes
I emerge from the subway at South Ferry station with a pit in my stomach. Ever since 9/11, I’ve kept my distance from lower Manhattan. It’s a sense memory I can’t seem to shake, despite legacy dining establishments like Delmonico’s and the only U.S. outpost of French luxury department store Printemps.
The eight-minute ride passes quickly, but it gives me just enough time to catch the adjacent Staten Island Ferry chugging by, transporting passengers between the two boroughs on its famous orange fleet.
I disembark, along with a gaggle of stroller-pushing parents, couples with picnic totes, and a handful of sporty types with their bikes, backpacks, and water bottles. I’ll be footing it around the island, which is no small feat.
Governors Island changed dramatically by 1912, when the Army Corps of Engineers oversaw the deposit of nearly 4.8 million cubic yards of rock and dirt excavated for the Lexington Avenue subway, plus dredge from New York Harbor. Now at 172 acres, it’s a lot of ground to cover, but I leave my more-is-more attitude in Manhattan and let the island show me what it wants me to see.
Art with a conscience
New York City is packed with cultural attractions. This fall alone, John Legend’s new musical premieres off-Broadway, and the Whitney Museum of American Art presents a major Roy Lichtenstein retrospective. Governors Island may be less flashy on the surface, but if you know where to look, art abounds.
Through public art, artists in residence, and “interventions” (the island’s multidisciplinary performance series), visitors experience a wide range of creative expression across cultures and communities.
Governors Island Arts commissions public art projects each year. This season includes several new works across the island, plus long-term installations (think of it as a mini Storm King Art Center). Two in particular stop me in my tracks.
Mohawk artist Alan Michelson (Six Nations of the Grand River) captures Indigenous and historical perspectives through his outdoor sculpture installation, “The Oyster” (through Nov. 30). Composed of salvaged oyster shells and steel mesh gabions, the mini amphitheater faces the Statue of Liberty and New York Harbor, becoming a point of reflection and restoration.
Developed in partnership with the Billion Oyster Project, the work invites us to consider the Lenape people’s legacy and our environmental responsibilities.
Further inland, Mark Handforth’s “Yankee Hanger” has been an island mainstay since 2014. The artist describes the piece as “a massive languid hanger that droops into noodley linear form,” while the Governors Island website calls it a “playful, snaking sculpture.”
I see something different.
When first revealed, “Yankee Hanger” may have landed differently. This was before the #MeToo movement gained traction and the Supreme Court’s 2022 overturning of Roe v. Wade.
For me, the massive hanger stands as a reminder of the assault on women’s rights and the fight for bodily autonomy. A heavy thought for a Sunday afternoon stroll, but our conscience forges its own path.
“Yankee Hanger,” despite the nearby picnickers and playground bustling with children, reminds me that America is—and will always be—a work in progress.
Glamping on Governors Island
After a glass of rosé, a sambusa, and people-watching at Eritrean-Ethiopian cafe Makina, I head to Collective Retreats, where I’ll spend the night under the stars.
Collective Retreats opened its Governors Island glamping site in 2018 as the first overnight lodging on the island since the Coast Guard departed in 1996. It remains a rare opportunity for locals and travelers alike to experience New York City’s quiet side.
True to my decades in New York City, I prefer creature comforts that include a bed and en suite bathroom. Fortunately, Collective Retreats delivers.
Accommodations range from Journey Tents with shared bathroom facilities to Basecamp Cabins with en suite bathrooms, some with soaking tubs and harbor views. I opt for the Expedition Tent, one of the latest additions to the collection.
The spa-style, custom wood-paneled rain shower, bath amenities, and chill-perfect A/C offer a much-needed escape from the city, with a waterfront deck and Adirondack-style chairs to remind me that home is just across the harbor. And, thankfully, no TV.
For those looking for a bit more flair, Collective Retreats recently collaborated with hospitality partner Urban Cowboy for a one-of-a-kind Urban Cowboy Tent. A clawfoot soaking tub, vintage-style textiles, found objects, and El Paso Saddle Blanket rugs complete the maximalist setting, with Lady Liberty just across the harbor.
I walk across the sprawling yard at the retreat’s entrance, where families play in the grass and a couple canoodles in a low-slung hammock. My eye is on the Sunset Terrace bar because if New York City has taught me anything, it’s not to pass up a happy hour. No mint on hand means no gimlet, but I refuse to be grumpy and opt for a glass of bubbles instead. Could Governors Island be rubbing off on me?
Three Peaks Lodge, the on-site restaurant, offers a pricey, curated menu, with just enough options to satiate if not overly impress, but that’s OK; I have complimentary s’mores to look forward to. As the sun sets, the staff lights up the fire pits and sets up a DIY station with mini chocolate bars, graham crackers, and lengthy twigs for roasting marshmallows over the open flame.
My body settles into its circadian rhythm as a storm rolls through and the patter of raindrops on the canvas roof eases me to sleep. Remarkably, I wake up with the sun and meander along a short path for a better view of the harbor.
There, I find myself next to an adjacent tent, where I overhear a couple bickering about an unpaid credit card bill. Having lived in close quarters for most of my adult life, the domesticity of the moment isn’t lost on me. Actually, it’s kind of brilliant, as I later see them strolling to breakfast hand in hand—just another day of coupledom.
Even before I’ve left, I imagine returning next season with a group of friends, a deck of cards, a board game or two, and not much else. “Roughing it” never felt so good.
QC Spa New York and the art of doing nothing
From glamping to glow-up, I leave Collective Retreats behind, walk along the island’s northern path for a leisurely 10 minutes, and arrive at my final destination: QC Spa New York (QC NY).
Founded by brothers Saverio and Andrea Quadrio Curzio, the Italian lifestyle brand spent $50 million restoring and reimagining the property. It now occupies two mirror-image Georgian Revival buildings, built in the 1930s to house officers of the U.S. Army’s 16th Infantry Regiment.
The day spa opened in March 2022, becoming a catalyst for year-round visitors to Governors Island. It’s a place to practice il dolce far niente (“the sweetness of doing nothing”), which doesn’t come naturally to me. I swap my backpack for swim trunks and a provided plush robe, toss my copy of David Sedaris’s latest essay collection in my tote, and head to the pool. Make that pools.
In a city where every square inch counts, QC NY maximizes its footprint with three outdoor heated pools. The Panorama, Symphony, and Sunset pools each offer their own perks, from bubbly jet streams and skyline views to the lull of sweet music. But that’s just the beginning.
QC NY offers over 20 experiences, from saunas and steam rooms to infrared beds and a Himalayan salt sanctuary. As someone who is usually firing on all cylinders, I ask myself: how much relaxation can one person handle? More than you think.
Yes, my mind wanders to deadlines and emails waiting to be sent, or the pile of laundry nobody is going to wash but me. But then something happens between the hydrojet massage and the Tide Room, where an aquatic foot massage does wonders for my plantar fasciitis brought on by years of pounding the pavement across the city streets. I care less.
For the next few hours, I move between my outdoor lounge chair with unobstructed views of the Manhattan skyline, pool dips, and spa room rotations, eventually making my way to Casa QC, the spa’s 5,000-square-foot bistro. I people-watch while nibbling on an aperitivo tray and sipping an Aperol spritz. Manhattan feels worlds away, even though the view tells me otherwise.
In a world increasingly fueled by social media dopamine hits, QC NY reminds me that doing nothing can be a form of radical restoration.
Much to my dismay, my Governors Island staycation ends, and I pack up my belongings and head back on the subway to my Midtown apartment. As I ascend from the Times Square station, a ticket seller stops me in my tracks and tries to sell me a seat on a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour.
“No thanks, I live here,” I say with a grin.
After a deep sleep, I wake up the following morning, wondering if it was all a dream until a persistent itch emerges on my forearm. A mosquito bite proves that my 24 hours on Governors Island was, in fact, very real.
How to plan your Governors Island staycation
Getting there: Daily ferries from Manhattan leave from the Battery Maritime Building, 10 South St. Round-trip tickets are $5 for adults, and weekend ferries before 11 a.m. are free. Seasonal weekend service from Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 6 and Red Hook’s Atlantic Basin runs through Nov. 1.
Where to eat: Governors Island offers various dining options, from food trucks to casual cafes, and plenty of areas for picnicking. Open days and hours vary by season.
Where to sleep: Collective Retreats is open seasonally from May through November. Rates vary by accommodation and day of the week.
Spa essentials: QC NY is open to guests 21 and older, with ID checked at the door. Bring a swimsuit, since it’s required throughout the spa. Robes, sandals, and towels are provided. Rates vary, with full-day, five-hour, and evening passes available. Collective Retreats guests get 10% off weekday passes with proof of a same-day stay (book directly with QC NY). Pro tip: During your birthday month, full-day entry is free when a companion pays full price (Monday through Friday; blackout dates apply).
