Alaska provides experiences unlike any other state in the country. Here’s how you can see incredible sights of nature and wildlife on a glacier-filled adventure.
Seward has a lot of cool stuff going for it. It’s the southernmost end of the Alaska Railroad and the starting point of the original Iditarod Trail. It’s got several impressive hikes that often include wildlife sightings, including popular excursions such as the Harding Icefield Trail and Mount Marathon. For such a small town, there’s a surprisingly impressive food and bar scene. And being in the Kenai Peninsula Borough means easy access to the majesty of Kenai Fjords National Park.
Well, easy in the sense that it’s geographically not too far. Spanning nearly 670,000 acres, there’s only one road, which ends at the appropriately named Exit Glacier. Everywhere else requires a boat, plane, or quite a bit of walking.
Since I did a whole lot of walking on the Harding Icefield Trail, I opted for a boat tour to see more of the Kenai Fjords. Major Marine Tours is a locally owned company that’s been touring the peninsula for over 30 years, treating the environment and marine life with the respect they deserve. The company even hosted Barack Obama during a visit to see how climate change had been impacting the state.
I settled on a 7.5-hour journey through the Kenai Fjords. The cruise path departs Seward and traverses through Resurrection Bay into the Gulf of Alaska. It weaves through a handful of small bits of land, including the Chiswell Islands, Cheval Islands, and the creatively named No Name Islands.
This particular journey includes the Holgate and Aialik Glaciers, providing multiple opportunities to see these incredible natural formations. Other tours will take you to more or fewer glaciers, depending on how long the trip runs.
With a twinkle in my eye, I headed to the docks to set out on the Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise.
All aboard the Spirit of Adventure
As I waited in line to board our ship, the aptly named Spirit of Adventure, I began chatting with the couple in front of me. They told me they had heard the waves were so high and rocky the previous day that the ship had to return to port early.
I tend to get motion sickness at the first sign of uneasiness. I’ve felt nauseous after the occasional hair-raising Lyft ride. I’ve sailed on one of the world’s only tall ships and spent much of the time hanging over the railing, trying to regain my bearings. I’ve thrown up after riding the Batman rollercoaster at not one, but two Six Flags theme parks. Adding to the complexity, I stayed out a bit too late the night before at the Yukon Bar, which hosts karaoke nights with quite the welcoming crowd and a nice mix of performances.
So, hearing something like “the waves were so rocky, we couldn’t do the full tour” was a little intimidating. I had taken Dramamine the night before and about an hour before we boarded the ship, and I had ginger chews at the ready. Would that be enough?
Thankfully, Captain Gary and Meghan, one of the crew members, quickly assuaged my fears. They said they had, in fact, completed the entire trip the previous day, and the waves today were less intense. They also suggested a few spots on the ship where I could situate myself if I felt uneasy.
This Major Marine Tour trip assigns tables to sit at during departure and docking, though guests are generally free to move about the cabin once the ship is out on the water. I settled into my seat next to another solo traveler named Tazrian. We shared stories of some of the sights we had seen and what was yet to come, and we agreed to be each other’s photographers for the trip. It’s nice to have helping hands.
Amazing aquatic animals
Seeing glaciers is a given on this tour, though wildlife sightings can vary based on the time of year, weather, and temperament of animals. There are numerous puffins and several varieties of seabirds flying around, and you’ll likely spot bald eagles hanging out in trees along various rock formations.
In the waters of Resurrection Bay and the Gulf of Alaska, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters are among the main attractions. While floating on my back in the middle of the ocean sounds like an absolute nightmare, sea otters look like they’re having the grandest of times as they drift along the waves, their heads swiveling to admire the views around them. We also caught some sea lions relaxing on a rock in the afternoon sun, and that doesn’t seem like too bad a life.
Our tour was especially lucky in that we got to watch orcas. Captain Gary informed us that it had been weeks since they were last spotted in the area. These whales really are a sight to behold (and fairly difficult for a camera to capture). The whales didn’t leap over our boat à la Free Willy, though we did see a few different pods, including a trio whose tails seemed to splash in sync. The gasps through the crowd were palpable, adding to a nice bonding experience among the passengers.
Using binoculars—either your own or those provided by the ship—is helpful for getting a closer look at some of the animals you encounter. The ship finds a good balance of being close enough to see what’s going on, but not so close that it disrupts the animals.
Gliding by majestic glaciers
Just about every Major Marine tour includes at least one glacier viewing, and on the 7.5-hour tour, we got to see both the Holgate and Aialik Glaciers.
It’s hard to convey just how massive these glaciers are. There are moments in life when you’re simply in awe of the world around you, and this is no exception. Tazrian and I both kept being stunned by the size and vibrancy of the glaciers; I appreciated having someone to marvel with.
Glacier calving is another impressive occurrence, when chunks of ice fall off the glacier and into the water. The term “calving” comes from the same idea as a cow giving birth to a calf. Similarly, the iceberg is “birthing” a chunk of ice.
What surprised me is how loud the calving process can be. We’d hear a noticeable crack, followed by a low rumble that seemed to get progressively louder. A few of the pieces were exceptionally large, creating tremendous splashes that rippled for a minute after the initial contact.
And since we live in an era where recording things is the norm, it was also kind of funny to watch people try to figure out where the calving was coming from. They’d frantically move their phones or cameras around, then realize they were facing the wrong spot of the iceberg. By then, it was too late.
Luckily, I had great discovery skills.
Celebrating a successful tour
All that calving means several hunks of ice are floating in the water. The crew scooped up a few of the larger pieces for two purposes. First, as a photo opportunity:
Next, the crew’s resident mixologist stirred up a few cocktails and mocktails using the glacial ice, available for an additional purchase. I opted for a Jellyfish Juice, the non-alcoholic version of a margarita. And after a busy day of sightseeing, it really hit the spot.
The latter part of the tour is mostly a chance to unwind. Many of my fellow passengers took the opportunity to snooze, though it’s worth staying awake. You can head out onto the deck for largely unobstructed views of rock formations, birds, and potentially other aquatic animals.
Almost as exciting, during the final stretch of the tour, the crew brings freshly baked brownies out to passengers. If you’re dozing off, you might miss out. You can sleep anytime. You can’t always indulge in warm brownies.
What to know for a Major Marine Tours experience
Thinking of heading out on a Major Marine Tours journey of your own? Here’s some helpful information.
Cost: Prices vary by tour; the 7.5-hour experience I did is $289 for adults and $144.50 for kids 2-11, with children under two able to board for free. Other experiences range from $109 to $329 for adults and half that for children. The 8.5-hour Northwestern Fjord Cruise is for adults only.
Parking: The easiest route is to use either the North Harbor or South Harbor lot near the Seward Small Boat Harbor. Both offer day parking for $15; it’s valid for 24 hours from when you pay, so you can take your time departing after the tour or grab dinner in the area.
Checking in: Before boarding, you’ll need to check in at the main office inside the Harbor 360 Hotel (1412 4th Avenue, Seward, AK 99664). I arrived about an hour before the departure time and only had to wait in line for five minutes. By the time I finished, the line was winding through the entire check-in area. The early bird gets the worm, and the early bird also avoids the stress of potentially missing the boat.
How to prepare: If you tend to get seasick like me, I can’t recommend something like Bonine or Dramamine (a non-drowsy version). Ginger chews were also helpful; I proactively ate a few throughout the day. I had BioBands, the acupressure wristbands, as a backup if need be, though the ship is large enough that the waves didn’t make things too rocky.
What to bring: The ship provides lunch, which includes a sandwich, chips, and a drink. Other snacks are available for purchase, so there’s plenty to eat. Aside from any motion sickness preparation, prepare to layer up—good advice for anywhere in Alaska. A warm cap or earmuffs, gloves, and a rain jacket are all helpful, and rubber-soled shoes will help you stay steady while moving around the boat.
Whether you’re a regular Seward visitor or stopping in for the first time, it’s a wonderful place. A glacier tour is an excellent way to enhance your visit.
